My Journey to the Bush of PNG

Expect the unexpected is the latest slogan for PNG and traveling to the bush is one unexpected breathe-taking beauty of a ride through a land still somewhat primitive, but what a gorgeous country! 

It was a Wednesday afternoon and I was traveling with our new Bishop, John Bosco Auram, and team from Kimbe to the bush villages of Ulamona and Mantanakunai. The road was surprisingly smoother than expected, not many potholes to slow us down, but each twist and turn revealed a luscious landscape of a variety of tropical trees lining the road and covering the fields and mountains along the way. We crossed bridges over fresh blue- green cold water rivers and at one point, saw a spectacular view of the ocean sparkling in the distance. There was a sense of wonder and discovery in the unspoiled wilderness we passed along the way.  We arrived in Ulamona to songs of welcome for the new Bishop who did his pastoral work as a deacon back in 1999 and they honored him as if welcoming back one of their own.

The next day after mass, we took a dinghy for a two hour trip across the sea to Mantanakunai- where the Bishop was again welcomed with song by the villagers who carried him to his place of honor. We were there to open a new parish in the bush village of Matanakunai (which was a sub-parish of Ulamona.) 

The bush conjures up an image of a wild, uncultivated and rustic land and certainly, Mantanakunai did not disappoint.   Matanakunai is situated right on the water with palm trees swaying in the breeze and vegetation blooming everywhere right on the border of East and West New Britain Provinces. It shares politics with East New Britain while the parish itself is under the Diocese of Kimbe. Was it rustic? I’ll let you decide- - no electricity (a generator powered the stage and church area), pit toilets (yikes - take a deep breath of fresh air before...) 😃 and bush houses that look more like cabins- no real furniture, no kitchen, no bathroom (pit toilet) , no glass in the windows, but it looked sturdy enough to withstand the numerous rain storms that often frequent a tropical paradise like Matanakunai. 

The village would be any artists dream with its unspoiled landscape and friendly people. The surroundings are equal to a tropical resort reminding me of what some northern countries have to recreate inside greenhouses or indoor botanical gardens that can only provide a glimpse into the natural beauty that inhabits such a place. 

Mitchel, a friend I met in Kimbe and lives in Ulamona found me and I asked her to accompany me to Mantanakunai and I’m so glad she agreed. She introduced me to the bush life. One example was the wash-wash in the pristine, but cold river only a few minutes walk from the village. I was totally unprepared for the splash of cold water being poured over me as the (all female) audience on shore looked on - some were amused at my shock and I’m sure for some it was their first time seeing a white meri (woman) experiencing such a wash-wash in the bush. Camping is what comes to mind, but I don’t think I ever had to wash- wash in a river before. Refreshing? - haha- well - okay, I’ll admit - it was refreshing, (after the initial shock wore off...) but brrrrrr - the water was just too cold, even on a humid day.

The opening of the new parish began with mass on both Friday (to honor the Bishop) and Saturday to install the new parish, Fr Cleofas as the parish priest, as well as the Catechists and the parishioners. There was an undeniable sense of something exceptional about to happen when the drums started beating and all made way for the warriors, both women and men, dressed in bilas (adornment of their bodies with leaves, feathers and other bush material and natural paint) spears in hand as they danced, escorting the Bible into the church. 

Lunch followed by celebrations and gifts began in the afternoon of both days with both East and West New Britain well represented by tribes and clans from both provinces as each group dressed in their own unique bilas and danced their ceremonial dances. Gifts included pigs (poor things), food items like taro, money and other honorable contributions. Friday was to honor our new Bishop while Saturday honored the new Parish priest Fr Cleofas. The stage was the main focal point of each afternoon and it looked newly built as it was dedicated on the 13 of June to the St. Mary’s Assumption Parish. There was an area already roped off and designated for the new church that will be built as well as a new priest house (I hope it has a real bathroom).

The church will be surrounded by a tropical landscape of beautiful palm trees swaying in the wind built along dirt roads that lead back to Kimbe or onward to Rabaul. The mountains seen from the village are part of the jungles where many of its people have already moved down into the village area to work or go to school. 

Returning across the water back to Ulamona on Saturday was amazing. My dinghy left at sundown.  As we watched the sun melt into the water, a ray of pure blue streaked across the sky. Mitchel called it the Ray of Divine Mercy and I never saw something so spectacular. It was in the shape of a rainbow but was only a deep beautiful color of blue. After the sun disappeared, a pitch dark night displayed an amazing array of stars that were reflected off the water as we followed the shoreline. We arrived back to Ulamona with an unbelievable star lineup taking place before us. 

The same room I occupied two nights earlier in the convent awaited my return, and even though there was no electricity, no hot water, a wet and chipped cement floor and fixtures and no real shower, there was a real toilet that flushed and a faucet to wash my hands and to me, it might as well of been the Ritz.

A volcano stands overlooking Ulamona as an ominous reminder of its three eruptions during the past year (2019) that evacuated the entire village- only now people are brave enough to return and rebuild their lives. I was told that the first and second eruptions created a new smaller volcano standing right next to the original while the third eruption mostly flowed underneath both volcanos birthed a baby peak. I prayed that they all remained asleep while we visited the area. 

Sunday mass began with a confirmation class of around 500 youths. The last confirmation took place 4 years earlier. This was one of the Bishop’s first confirmations since his installation and luckily he was comfortable enough to delegate the task to two of his senior priests. With 500 youths, it could have been a very long mass. Again that afternoon was filled with lunch, followed by a celebration that included singing, dancing and gift presentations. 

In the past, Ulanoma welcomed both the Missionaries of the Sacred Heart (MSC) priests and religious sisters who operated a saw-mill providing the surrounding villages lumber for many years. Unfortunately, the mill burned and all was eventually abandoned. But the church remains and it was almost a replica of the old cathedral in Kimbe.  The missionaries are long gone, but they left behind their buildings and their faith that the villagers embrace and will pass on to the new generation. 

Overall, traveling to the bush was an amazing experience- something truly unexpected.  I want to end my blog on a cute note. I walk to school and it’s about a thirty minute walk. On the corner of the main road and the long road leading to Ruango Junior High is a house with a lot of little children who wave to me every morning and again in the afternoon when I return home. I must have blown them a kiss at one point because now they throw those kisses back at me. It always makes my day in such a cute way. 

Please know that I continue to pray for you as I hope you continue to pray for me. I am discerning whether I should leave at the end of the year or stay for one more year. Please pray with me for God to reveal how long I should stay here in PNG. God bless all of you and - please leave comments. Bye until next time...