Expect
the unexpected is the latest slogan for PNG and traveling to the bush is one
unexpected breathe-taking beauty of a ride through a land still somewhat
primitive, but what a gorgeous country!
It was a Wednesday afternoon and I was traveling with our
new Bishop, John Bosco Auram, and team from Kimbe to the bush villages of
Ulamona and Mantanakunai. The road was surprisingly smoother than expected, not
many potholes to slow us down, but each twist and turn revealed a luscious
landscape of a variety of tropical trees lining the road and covering the
fields and mountains along the way. We crossed bridges over fresh blue- green
cold water rivers and at one point, saw a spectacular view of the ocean sparkling
in the distance. There was a sense of wonder and discovery in the unspoiled
wilderness we passed along the way. We arrived in Ulamona to songs of
welcome for the new Bishop who did his pastoral work as a deacon back in 1999
and they honored him as if welcoming back one of their own.
The
next day after mass, we took a dinghy for a two hour trip across the sea to
Mantanakunai- where the Bishop was again welcomed with song by the villagers
who carried him to his place of honor. We were there to open a new parish in
the bush village of Matanakunai (which was a sub-parish of Ulamona.)
The
bush conjures up an image of a wild, uncultivated and rustic land and
certainly, Mantanakunai did not disappoint. Matanakunai is situated
right on the water with palm trees swaying in the breeze and vegetation
blooming everywhere right on the border of East and West New Britain Provinces.
It shares politics with East New Britain while the parish itself is under the
Diocese of Kimbe. Was it rustic? I’ll let you decide- - no electricity (a
generator powered the stage and church area), pit toilets (yikes - take a deep
breath of fresh air before...) 😃 and bush houses that look more like cabins- no real
furniture, no kitchen, no bathroom (pit toilet) , no glass in the windows, but
it looked sturdy enough to withstand the numerous rain storms that often
frequent a tropical paradise like Matanakunai.
The
village would be any artists dream with its unspoiled landscape and friendly
people. The surroundings are equal to a tropical resort reminding me of what
some northern countries have to recreate inside greenhouses or indoor botanical
gardens that can only provide a glimpse into the natural beauty that inhabits
such a place.
Mitchel,
a friend I met in Kimbe and lives in Ulamona found me and I asked her to
accompany me to Mantanakunai and I’m so glad she agreed. She introduced me to
the bush life. One example was the wash-wash in the pristine, but cold river
only a few minutes walk from the village. I was totally unprepared for the
splash of cold water being poured over me as the (all female) audience on shore
looked on - some were amused at my shock and I’m sure for some it was their
first time seeing a white meri (woman) experiencing such a wash-wash in the
bush. Camping is what comes to mind, but I don’t think I ever had to wash- wash
in a river before. Refreshing? - haha- well - okay, I’ll admit - it was
refreshing, (after the initial shock wore off...) but brrrrrr - the water was
just too cold, even on a humid day.
The
opening of the new parish began with mass on both Friday (to honor the Bishop)
and Saturday to install the new parish, Fr Cleofas as the parish priest, as
well as the Catechists and the parishioners. There was an undeniable sense of
something exceptional about to happen when the drums started beating and all
made way for the warriors, both women and men, dressed in bilas (adornment of
their bodies with leaves, feathers and other bush material and natural paint)
spears in hand as they danced, escorting the Bible into the church.
Lunch
followed by celebrations and gifts began in the afternoon of both days with both East and West New Britain well represented by tribes and clans from both provinces as each group dressed in
their own unique bilas and danced their ceremonial dances. Gifts included pigs
(poor things), food items like taro, money and other honorable contributions.
Friday was to honor our new Bishop while Saturday honored the new Parish priest
Fr Cleofas. The stage was the main focal point of each afternoon and it looked
newly built as it was dedicated on the 13 of June to the St. Mary’s Assumption
Parish. There was an area already roped off and designated for the new church
that will be built as well as a new priest house (I hope it has a real
bathroom).
The
church will be surrounded by a tropical landscape of beautiful palm trees
swaying in the wind built along dirt roads that lead back to Kimbe or onward to
Rabaul. The mountains seen from the village are part of the jungles where many
of its people have already moved down into the village area to work or go to
school.
Returning
across the water back to Ulamona on Saturday was amazing. My dinghy left at
sundown. As we watched the sun melt into the water, a ray of pure blue
streaked across the sky. Mitchel called it the Ray of Divine Mercy and I never
saw something so spectacular. It was in the shape of a rainbow but was only a
deep beautiful color of blue. After the sun disappeared, a pitch dark
night displayed an amazing array of stars that were reflected off the water as
we followed the shoreline. We arrived back to Ulamona with an unbelievable star
lineup taking place before us.
The
same room I occupied two nights earlier in the convent awaited my return, and
even though there was no electricity, no hot water, a wet and chipped cement
floor and fixtures and no real shower, there was a real toilet that flushed and
a faucet to wash my hands and to me, it might as well of been the Ritz.
A volcano
stands overlooking Ulamona as an ominous reminder of its three eruptions
during the past year (2019) that evacuated the entire village- only now people
are brave enough to return and rebuild their lives. I was told that the first
and second eruptions created a new smaller volcano standing right next to the
original while the third eruption mostly flowed underneath both volcanos
birthed a baby peak. I prayed that they all remained asleep while we visited the
area.
Sunday
mass began with a confirmation class of around 500 youths. The last
confirmation took place 4 years earlier. This was one of the Bishop’s
first confirmations since his installation and luckily he was comfortable
enough to delegate the task to two of his senior priests. With 500 youths, it
could have been a very long mass. Again that afternoon was filled with lunch,
followed by a celebration that included singing, dancing and gift
presentations.
In the
past, Ulanoma welcomed both the Missionaries of the Sacred Heart (MSC) priests
and religious sisters who operated a saw-mill providing the surrounding
villages lumber for many years. Unfortunately, the mill burned and all was
eventually abandoned. But the church remains and it was almost a replica of the
old cathedral in Kimbe. The missionaries are long gone, but they
left behind their buildings and their faith that the villagers embrace and will
pass on to the new generation.
Overall,
traveling to the bush was an amazing experience- something truly unexpected. I want to end my blog on a cute note. I walk
to school and it’s about a thirty minute walk. On the corner of the main road
and the long road leading to Ruango Junior High is a house with a lot of little
children who wave to me every morning and again in the afternoon when I return
home. I must have blown them a kiss at one point because now they throw those
kisses back at me. It always makes my day in such a cute way.
Please know that I continue to pray for you as I hope you
continue to pray for me. I am discerning whether I should leave at the end of
the year or stay for one more year. Please pray with me for God to reveal how
long I should stay here in PNG. God bless all of you and - please leave comments.
Bye until next time...